Day 2: Three Cape Scenic Drive- Driving and hiking Cape Meares, Lookout and Kiwanda

The Three Capes Scenic Route is a fun little tour through some of Northern Oregon's beautiful capes. It is an approximately 40 mile drive starting at Cape Meares before continuing on to Cape Lookout and finally, Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City.  

Three Capes Scenic Route Map - noting the correct route to take and the closed route above. 

Because we were started our coastal drive from the northern most coastal point in Oregon, Astoria, we started the Three Capes Scenic Drive from the northern end.  The Katie Plan was to drive down from Astoria and then cut across from Tillamook over to Cape Meares.  We would stop to take a few pictures and take in the views before making our way down the coast to Cape Lookout where we planned to hike.  After some hiking and meeting Thatcher' brother, we would finally reach Cape Kiwanda just in time to drink a beer at Pelican Brewery and watch the sun set over (the other) Haystack Rock. 

And yes, my itineraries are always quite ambitious. 

Cape Meares

Cape Meares 

Cape Meares is the first Cape to see if you are coming from the north coast.  We didn't spend much time here because we tried to come in from the north via Bay Ocean Road only to be greeted by a road closure due to slide activity.  Instead, we detoured to this dead end road that lead us to the Cape (but not the State Park).  If you want to visit the park you need to take the southern route to the park, following route 131. 

 The main attraction at Cape Meares is walking the beach, and touring the old lighthouse.  The lighthouse was built in the 1890s and is open from spring to fall for tours (hours can be found on their site here). If you rather walk and hike, there are 3 miles of hiking trail and a one mile walking trail.  Nesting birds can be seen from the areas, as well as migrating seals, sea lions and whales off in the distance. 

So far, Cape Meares was pretty but kind of a bust because of the detour issue.  Time was running out so on to the next Cape we went to hike and explore.

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Cape Lookout - South Beach

Cape Lookout 

Cape Lookout was our middle stop in the drive, and was where we had planned to do our hiking for the day.  Cape Lookout was on our itinerary, the main attraction, the star of the show if you will.  Tyler had recommended we hike the longer route, the Cape Trail out to the point, and then the South trail to the beach where they were surfing.  We were excited to stretch our legs, get Olive out of the car, and see more of the Oregon Coast. 

Cape Lookout State Park Hiking Map

We parked at the trailhead, which is actually 2.7 miles PAST the entrance for Cape Lookout State Park.  The state park itself has a nature trail, picnic area, and full campground including flush toilets, showers, yurts and cabins.  However we were here to hike and passed the entrance to the main area of the park and campground, and continued on to the Cape Lookout Trailhead.  Not realized the trail was actually not from the park itself where I was planning to fill up on water, we continued to the trailhead light on water, but with a few beers and a positive attitude that it would all work out.  Morale was a little low after the Cape Meares Scenic Drive Bust. 

On the way to the trailhead (2.7 miles past the entrance to the campground), you will continue on the windy road and pass a popular spot where paragliders and hang gliders launch from.  Be careful of pedestrians and cars as you make your way to the trailhead and if you are me, mutter a quick "better them then me" as you watch them launch off the cliff attached to kites.  

The trailhead was busy on a Saturday morning, but we were able to still find a spot at the end of the road.  The trailhead is marked on the right side of the road, has a parking area (no fee!) and a few port-o-potties.  This trailhead accesses all three trails, the North Trail to the State Park area, the Cape Trail to the lookout point, and the South Trail to the secluded beach where we were meeting friends who were surfing.

Trailhead: 2.7 miles past main entrance/campground on the right. 

Fee:  No fee at this trailhead

Distances: 

South Trail - 1.8-miler down to the beach (one way and has a lot of switchbacks)

Cape Trail- 2.4-miler out to the end of the Cape. ( I logged about 3 one way)

North Trail-  a 2.3-miler down to the picnic area and campground (one way)

Dogs:  Yes! On Leash 

Kids:  Yes, relatively flat

Notes:  The trail is mostly shaded, exposed at the end.  Can be muddy in spots.  There are steep unguarded drop offs so may aware.  

Cape Trail (5-6 miles RT)

Where South Trail and Cape Trail split 

The good news is the trail is mostly shaded walking through the thick forest.  The other good news is that it's Oregon so theres a nice breeze and the temperature is pretty perfect.  The bad news is that the hike gets a little repetitive of walking along the same path in the woods.  The other bad news is that when the trail does open up to the water, its basically a cliff edge that isn't fenced in plummeting into the Pacific.  If you don't like heights, I warned you. 

Views from the Cape Trail

Views from the Cape Trail

Views from the Cape Trail

After about 2.5 to 3 miles you come to the end of the hike, the clearing where you have hiked nearly three miles out into the Pacific.  There is one bench, and a rather flimsy looking structure to keep you from falling into the Pacific.  Enjoy the views, have a snack, and soak up the sun before turning around to head back the way you came. Overall we enjoyed the hike, but found the trail to be a little long and boring until you reached the point.  But no worries, we still have one more hike to complete before leaving Cape Lookout, and that was down to the beach. 

End of the Cape Trail

End of the Cape Trail

South Trail (~2.6 miles RT)

We made it all the way back to the parking area, passing the junction of South Trail and Cape Trail that is just past the parking area.  We filled up a bag with beers, cheese, and crackers before  retracing our steps to the junction of the two trails, but this time heading down to the beach to meet friends surfing the Pacific below. 

This is a shorter but steeper hike than the Cape Trail, as it heads down to the secluded South Beach.  There are a lot of switchbacks which makes the trail longer but also more accessible for hikers.  We were a little tired after driving all morning and hiking the Cape Trail, but we had just driven all the way to Oregon and Thatcher's brother Tyler was surfing the beach at the end of the trail.  And then there was the fact that we had a bag of cold beer and snacks to will us to the beach.  The only way to access this beach is via the 1.8 mile (one way) trail.  The reward is a secluded sandy beach away from the crowds, and a pretty hike among the shady dense trees. 

Making our way down the South Trail to the Beach

Agan, you are back in the woods but this time making your way down to the beach but instead of to the end of the trail.  This trail had much less traffic, and a lovely bench to watch the sunset about a half mile into the trail. 

Bench overlook along the South Trail

South Beach at the end of the trail

Olive loved having the beach virtually to herself with just one other group surfing off the beach with us.  We lounged in the sunshine with our goodies, and watched the surfers in the water while catching up with Tyler.  Oregon showed off its... Oregonness with this beautiful secluded beach on a perfectly sunny Saturday.  After a nice relaxing hour on the beach chatting with Tyler and friends about his company shaping surfboards it was time to hike back up to the car and make our way to our last stop, Cape Kiwanda. 

South Beach at the end of the trail

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Cape Kiwanda and Haystack Rock

Cape Kiwanda

Our last stop after a lot of hiking at Cape Lookout was Cape Kiwanda.  This is the southern most cape, and the smallest of the three.  However, it is one of the most iconic of the capes with its brewery and (the other) Haystack Rock (not to be confused with the Haystack Rock of Cannon Beach) sitting off in the distance. 

 The Cannon Beach Haystack Rock looks to be taller, but it is actually the smaller of the two, deceiving the eye because it is much closer to shore (on the tideline vs. a mile off shore).  The Haystack Rock in Pacific City is about 100' taller at about 340', but much further out in the water.  Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City isn't just known for the "Bigger Haystack Rock" but is also known for its surfing and home to the Pacific Dory Fishing Fleet.  

While there are plenty of options of activities here, including surfing, swimming, walking, and a 2.2 mile loop hike I heard was lovely, we were here for one purpose, sunset, ocean views, and a cold beer. We were a little hiked our at this point.  

Pelican Pub and Brewery at Pacific City

Pelican Pub and Brewery sits right on the sand in front of Haystack Rock in Pacific City.  The place was insanely busy on a beautiful weekend evening, and we had learned our lesson at Rogue Brewery the night before (the lesson being that breweries always (and only) have mediocre food at best).  We skipped dinner but enjoyed a beer sampler and cold waters while watching the sunset over Cape Kiwanda.  A beautiful day, and three capes off the Oregon Coast ended up cold beer and great views. 

Beer Sampler at Pelican Pub and Brewery at Pacific City